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HE VIVID SYDNEY FESTIVAL commences its sixth year this weekend, with the iconic lighting of the Sydney Opera House sails kicking things off. I’m glad that I get the chance to see it for the first time before I take off for Hong Kong and East Europe on Tuesday.

As much as I tried to capture the electric atmosphere and excitement of the ‘Opening Night’ on Viddy and Cameo, I just can’t make those ‘handy’ apps work for me. This video is less than 2-minutes using vids from the apps, and my camera – uploaded on to iMovie.

After dinner outdoors at Wilbur’s in a buzzy laneway near me, I skipped into the city for a quick look at the Light Show. I kept my viewing to the Circular Quay area but the festival will continue at many other venues all over the city for the next couple of weeks. It’s almost the first day of Winter, but If the weather remains as balmy as this evening, then the festival will be a huge success.

ivid Sydney Festival of Light Music and Ideas is staged at the end of May each year and stretches into the start of Winter. In November, with Spring on the doorstep, Sydney also stages ‘Sculpture by the Sea’, a cliff walk from Bondi Beach to Tamarama Beach. Another well worth while outing. This 1-minute slideshow is from 2007.

I set out next week for a month – my first trip in 2014.

fter a stop in Hong Kong where I lived for four years in the 80’s, I fly on to Warsaw for ten days in Poland, where Edmundo and I have never been. Pam and Ken join us in Wroclaw where we tour Lower Silesia before driving to Prague. On the way, we cross the German border and make a lunch stop in Görlitz to meet up with good friend Frank who is coming from Berlin to see us.

This will be a return visit to Prague for me, and an opportunity to experience the changes in this Bohemian city since its emergence from under the yoke of Communism twenty five years ago.

After a day in the heart of Bohemia in Český Krumlov, we catch a train for ride through the countryside to Budapest for a five night stay at one of the romantic old Palace hotels right on the Danube . Again, I haven’t been there for more than twenty years and I really look forward to it. Time to take it a bit easy.

n my collection of Retrospectives, I have a story of my 1993 visit to Prague. Perhaps in coming days, I will proof it and publish here as an interesting reference. Unfortunately, photos from that ‘era’ were not digital, and the only two prints I have I’ll use here.

Sun glints off gold balls on wonderful spires that typify this medieval city of Prague

 

Here’s the opening paragraph of what looks to be a long (of course, interesting!) story.

 

A Wet Weekend in Bohemia – September 1993

Unless you are made of sterner stuff than I, you too would have been disappointed.

F

lying in to an unknown country for a weekend of sightseeing, the ominously grey clouds swirling over farms and little country roads below confirm this morning’s depressing CNN weather forecast. You know the feeling. Sigh!

In this, my first visit to what is now the Czech Republic (since I was here on a tour bus for one night seventeen years ago), the weather only gets worse. On occasion, when sunlight did filter through, I didn’t have my camera with me. I missed such wonderful shots as the sun glinting off gold balls on fairytale spires on the church in the main square that typify this medieval city.

I was with a good Australian friend, the late David Michôd, and we were never ones to let a bit of rain get in the way of a good time.

M

y first impression of the Old City with its narrow winding streets where Mozart once walked with his soprano mistress, was somewhat spoiled by the over-abundance of red and yellow western commercialism.  I wanted to burn down the Marlboro and Coca Cola umbrellas and Camel fences which seemed to adorn every café and newsstand along the cobbled ways.  Unfortunately, according to Maria, the locals like them – “our people are very international and they’ve never seen such umbrellas before”.  My ‘cigarette’ friend of thirty years, David Michôd, was quick to point out that they were a sign of the stimulus needed to create a market economy, which is so necessary to eventually bring living standards to an acceptable level.  I soon contained my ire and went on to debate retailing and marketing opportunities in these emerging economies.

I

had known David since we were both 21 and living in Queensland, and we were both working overseas at the time we visited Prague. We went to an Organ and Trumpet Concert in the Church of St Nicholas in the Old Town one evening, and I daresay that it was this closeness that permitted him to whisper back to my comment on the piercing clarity of the trumpeted notes, and tell me that I had bad breath. Only a friend would do that! Oh God! 

Michael and the late David Michôd in Prague in 1993 - on an afternoon with some sunshine

ould you believe? I am out in Kings Cross on a beautiful sunny Saturday lunchtime; standing outside Harris Farm Market looking for a recipe for ‘tomato tea’ – in Dropbox on my iPhone. I want to make sure that I have all the required ingredients before starting on the recipe.

How did this notion of ‘tomato tea’ come up in the first place? Yesterday, I received a text message from a Vietnamese friend, Annie Ha.  She had been to the Vegetable Markets with her husband and had bought a whole bag of tomatoes for me. So, how better to use them up than for soup?

Tomatoes fresh from the Vegetable Market - Thank you, Annie Ha

Years ago, I went to the Berowra Waters Inn in the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park outside Sydney for lunch with some overseas visitors Eddy and Isma. We were presented with an intensely-flavourful, but delicate demitasse of ‘tomato tea’ as we stepped from the seaplane on to the jetty – half a cup, and a fine porcelain cup, without a saucer. I was thinking it was a bit odd at the time but a novel difference to the usual glass of bubbly. It was simply delicious, and obviously memorable.

Chef meets the sea plane with a demitasse of 'tomato tea' at Berowra Waters Inn on the Hawkesbury River, north of Sydney in the 90's

International Visitors Eddy and Isma at Berowra Waters Inn, north of Sydney

ears after that, on a visit to Berlin, I met an old German friend of Frank Scheele, (whose mother ran the bakery store,

A Trumpet Fanfare heralded the commencement of a jubilant 125th Anniversary Mass at St Canice’s this time last Sunday.

oday; same place; totally different vibe. I walk into Mass to see black and white images of women’s faces; all but one with eyes closed; anguish written all over them; so palpable. Then a zephyr ruffles a couple of them only amplifying the anguish portrayed. iPhone out of my pocket, I’m compelled to capture this disturbing, but so compelling experience.

“Sudarios is a wrenching series of portraits of witnesses to massacres committed during the Colombian armed conflict in which Colombian society has been battling leftist guerrillas involved in kidnapping and narco-traffic. (The two parties to the conflict are now presently engaged in talks, in Cuba, as Cuba has always been a safe-haven for the guerillas.)

Printed on silk, these portraits tells the stories of twenty grief-stricken victims who, as part of their torture, were forced to watch unspeakable violence perpetrated against their loved ones and were left alive as witnesses. Sudarios is a portrait of the irreparable harm which violence leaves in humanity.”

Colombian artist, Erika Diettes, seen here talking to St Canice's parishioner Margaret Spencer about her photographs of women who had been present at the torture and murder of their loved ones

Fr Chris goes on to remind us that these faces could well represent our own mothers, or women close to us who are also suffering loss of loved ones, and to those mothers whose daughters have been kidnapped in Nigeria; in Syria, or even in our own Stolen Generation.

A pause for thought on this Mother’s Day.

“The exhibition is part of a Sydney-wide Head-On Photo Festival. The work has been displayed in churches in several countries; we welcome it and Erika to St Canice’s.” Fr Chris

This 2-minute Video includes music from the morning’s Mass. Organist Christine Moriarty, and Soloist Greg McCreanor

 

 

 

hew! It’s done.

 

THIS 10-MINUTE VIDEO OF SELECTIONS OF MUSIC FROM THE 125TH ANNIVERSARY MASS AT ST CANICE’S is the culmination of many weeks of quite intense planning for the Event on my part, and now finally reaching the point of finishing off the coverage.

What’s next?

300+ people packed into St Canice's for the 125th Anniversary Mass

s you might expect, there was much of what was said in the Addresses at St Canice’s yesterday that resonated with me. But one thought in particular had already been percolating around in my head of late (in quotes below)

My brother Mark says little, but his inferences deafen me; my friend Pam is a tad more pointed; and Edmundo tells me that I keep producing blog posts to get plaudits from my ‘Adoration Society’, and further admonishes me turn down my level of intensity.

I know they think I spend too much time at the computer – keeping busy. So, after another gentle nudge in words of Bishop Peter yesterday I am sharing a personal self-criticism, He has me confessing that my best intentions to simply stop and ‘read a book’, or ‘pray’, so often get ‘rail-roaded’ by other ‘chatter’ in my brain. And what am I going to do about it?

Anyway, while I ponder, you may like to read the ‘Bishop Peter’ extract in which he talks about Silence:

Have you ever had the experience that the words Scripture were addresses personally to you? For this to happen regularly, we need to learn to listen.

But how can we listen to God today when music devices are permanently attached to our ears or when the TV is automatically turned on when you enter the living room? Our modern malaise is not that we cannot hear, but that we have filled our lives with devices that stop us from listening.

Silence is a precious thing, something to be fostered. In faith, it is silence that is the path to hearing what the Lord might want to say to us. And that takes time and effort.

Bishop Peter Comensoli

t’s nothing short of Divine intervention that we celebrate the 125th Anniversary Mass at St Canice’s blessed with blue skies and sunshine. For days, weather forecasters have been promising gusty, wintery blasts from Antarctica, and rain. Thank God! They were wrong!

We were also blessed with the presence of a most engaging Bishop Peter Comensoli, who presided at the Mass. After Mass, sun streaming through the trees creating a golden haze, Bishop Peter ventures outside into the forecourt, mitre on, mingling, big smile, hand out-stretched, introducing himself to the parishioners. This young prelate is so boy-next-door approachable. How refreshing; how great if he were to get the nod to replace Cardinal Pell.

The Opening of the Church and celebration of the first Mass was on May 5th 1889. Cardinal Moran presided.

Today’s celebratory Mass was indeed a moving, spiritual experience from so many perspectives, but one of the regular parishioners summed it up in perhaps more secular vernacular ‘sumptuous’! This is such a juxtaposition to the normal daily focus of the parish providing a welcome haven, without judgement, for the needy in our densely populated area of Sydney.

But, surely we can afford to be ‘sumptuous’ for a day – on the occasion of our 125th Anniversary Celebration!

n the long, first note of the trumpet, a palpable hush engulfs the church and the 300+ congregation instinctively rises, and stands rooted to the spot by the wonderful Prelude to Te Deum by Marc Charpentier – the organ and trumpet fanfare to announce the commencement of the celebratory 125th Anniversary Mass.

Meanwhile, as Master of Ceremonies, I stand at the lectern, also stunned, (during a much longer pause than you see in this video, wondering ‘Is that all there is?” ). And then it starts. Wonderful music – from the heavens. Thank you, Christine and thank you Ian.

 

Fanfare and ‘Acknowledgement of Land’ – 3-minute Video

 
 
he Principal Celebrant at today’s Mass is the recently appointed Apostolic Administrator of the Archdiocese, the Most Reverend Bishop Peter Comensoli – warmly received by all. So affable, approachable, and simply enjoyed being here, mingling and chatting with parishioners for an hour after the Mass.

'Bishop Peter' chats and shares a chicken sandwich with Elouise and June

Celebrating The Spirit of St Canice’s – Bishop Peter’s Homily and Other ‘personal Reflections’

hese are extracts from four inspiring Addresses during this special Mass. They include Bishop Peter’s Homily; Father Chris’ words before the Final Blessing; and personal insights into what the “Spirit of St Canice’s” means to two of our steadfast parishioners, Sue Wittenoom, and Gerard Brennan.

ST CANICE”S 125th ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATORY MASS THIS SUNDAY 4TH MAY AT 10.30 AM The recently appointed Apostolic Administrator, Bishop Peter Comensoli will preside. DO COME!

One of the Gerhard Haas' 'masterly' floral installations at St Canice's

THE MAGNIFICENT FLOWER ARRANGEMENTS by Gerhard Haas already have those parishioners, (who enjoyed a sneak preview at the Saturday Vigil Mass), trying to guess what flowers have been included in the old fashioned selection. Gerhard has reproduced colourful displays for the special occasion using flowers that would have been used in the late 19th century.

The flowers chosen include:
Red leaves of Phitonia; Little Gem Magnolia leaves and mature green Hydrangea provide filler for the more colourful flowers. These include: large yellow disbud Chrysanthemum and Sunflowers; clumps of yellow and red Roses with some deep red David Austen roses as accents; white Lilies; apricot Celosia; other accents are provided by long stems of red Rosella fruit, white Snapdragon and stems of white Tuberose to add perfume.

ydney in March is pretty hard to beat, particularly for a visitor from northern climes.

I don’t need to write much more than that . . . . . simply let the photos, taken during German friend Frank’s visit tell a story. Frank and I worked together in the early 90’s in Germany. His life has taken him in a completely new direction, while I have settled into busy retirement, but not too busy to go sightseeing in the great city of Sydney.

The photos highlight a wonderful day south of Sydney through the Royal National Park to the isolated and pristine Garie Beach, and then on towards Wollongong for lunch at the beautiful Bulli Point. Another super day was enjoyed on the half-hour harbour crossing on the Manly Ferry for lunch at Papi Chulo’s on the wharf.

Watching the fishermen locals trying their luck in the surf at Garie Beach

Sydney panorama - from the Eastern suburbs where I live across to downtown and to the Opera House and Harbour Bridge

CLICK HERE to view Google+ Photo Album or Slideshow

Pfarrer Frank after visiting the little Brown Sisters for a St Joseph's Day Mass

lan and I first met on a Lufthansa ‘educational’ to Germany in 1967. Now after nearly fifty years, with both of us living on various sides of the globe, Alan is departing Australia to set up home in Thailand. I share some pics from that very first ‘getting to know him’ occasion of Oktoberfest in Germany 1967, and at a Farewell Dinner at Claire’s Kitchen in Sydney in 2014.

Oktoberfest 1967 - Alan and Michael nearly 50 years ago!

Pam, Robert (Alan's brother), MIchael, Jo, and Carole, Alan's sister - at Alan's Farewell Dinner in Sydney

Alan with old friend from LH days, Jane

dmundo and I shared a wonderful 10 days in Portugal with an expat American tour guide, Greg Arvoy before Joining the Turners on the Crystal Harmony to cruise around to Trieste.

I started to write a story about why we went on this trip, and then to share some of the marvellous experiences.

Little prepared was I for stories . . .

of battles . . .
of Portuguese Kings . . .
of the Discoveries . . .
of so many UNESCO World Heritage sites . . .
of apparitions of the Blessed Virgin in Fatima . . .

let alone for visiting these fascinating places of historic interest.

Click here to read of my experiences .

 

 
 
View Google+ Photo Albums for Mobile Devices:
 
Lisbon
 
Vila Viçosa
 
Évora
 
Estramoz, Marvão, and Belmonte
 
Guimarães
 
The Douro and Porto
 
Casa Alta Royal Lodge and Castle of Ourém (near Fatima)
 
Fatima
 
Mosteiro da Batalha, literally the Monastery of the Battle
 
Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Alcobaça

 

Picasa Web Albums with captions follow – Lisbon; Vila Viçosa; Évora; Estramoz, Marvão, and Belmonte; Guimarães; The Douro and Porto; Casa Alta Royal Lodge and Castle of Ourém (near Fatima); Fatima; Batalha; and Alcobaça.

nother one bites the dust . . . that is if you look on ‘turning 70’ as ‘biting the dust!

But who does?

It’s great to be 70! And, judging by the happiness on my sister Anne’s face all day long, answering phone calls and knocks on the door on January 31st 2014, she’s all for it too.

Obviously happy at being 70! Anne with her two grand daughters Lucy and Zoe

Happy Birthday Annie!

 

Click here to see other photos of the happy weekend in Google+ Album.
 

visit to St Vincent’s is always an excuse to drop by Bills Darlinghurst (the original one). Bills still has the freshest produce and make the best sandwiches, salads, and other dishes. Today is no exception!

How can a coconut poached chicken sandwich taste so good – with shaved lengths of crisp cucumber dripping juice and lime mayo running down my chin onto the newspaper I’m reading?

COCONUT POACHED CHICKEN SANDWICH WITH CUCUMBER & LIME MAYONNAISE at Bills Darlinghurst - SO FRESH!

nd then home to peel some Queensland Honey Gold mangoes; so rich, sweet and aromatic; and then finish the job by greedily sucking the seeds, letting the juice run down my arms to my elbows! Can’t wait for breakfast tomorrow – mango with Greek yoghurt and blueberries – also excellent at this time of year.

(I will not confess to this being the second ‘sugar hit’ for the afternoon, having earlier fallen to Pavla’s wily ways at Bills at lunch time, where I was tempted. and weakened. to try her salted chocolate caramel slice with a cup of tea.)

A DAY IN ‘ANCIENT ROME’ – Temple of Fortuna Primigenia in modern Palestrina (ancient Praeneste), and Tivoli

View Photos with captions: CLICK HERE

At the Temple of Fortuna Primigenia in modern Palestrina (ancient Praeneste - (now a 12th century Renaissance Palace stands on the site))

A DAY IN ‘ANCIENT ROME’ AND VILLA D’ESTE GARDENS IN TIVOLI

After immersing ourselves in Christmas for days, we decide to voyage back into the times ‘before Christ’ with a knowledgeable local guide, and visit the Pagan Temple of Fortuna in Palestrina. It’s located in a dominating position looking out to sea in the foothills of the Apennine Mountain range, about forty kilometres from Rome. It’s good for a change to be driving out in the countryside; with farmsteads, sheep grazing in the fields, vineyards and olives; and seeing that signature Roman ‘umbrella’ pine that dot the landscape.

We do pass an old stone Roman bridge, but on winding up narrow roads to the top of the hill, there’s not too much left of the original Temple buildings in this Sanctuary of the Goddess of Fortuna. However, the massive scale can be easily imagined with the stepped landscaping that follows the natural slope of the hill.

We are seated 'up there amongst the saints' on the balcony overlooking the central window of St Peter's to watch Pope Francis' Christmas Day blessing for the City and for the World called Urbi et Orbi.

Representatives of Brazil, Cuba, Puerto Rico and Australia at Pope Francis' Urbi and Orbi

View our PHOTOS: CLICK HERE

Story to come.

L

uck and honour in equal measure!

On Christmas Eve, we are so lucky to have received tickets at the eleventh hour to be seated in St Peter’s Basilica for the Midnight Christmas Mass, presided over by Pope Francis.

Michael, before the giant Christmas Tree in St Peter's Square

Arriving at St Peter’s at 6.30 pm, we join a queue that stretches right around St Peter’s Square, and back, in a double line. The massive doors swing open at 7.30 pm and we see a flood of humanity gushing forth, looking like ants against the massive pillars of the portico of St Peter’s, to find a seat for the Mass (and the best vantage point to see the new Pope).

Incredulously, all 10,000 worshippers find places in the Basilica, the largest church in the world, even if we are seated in the last rows. As Matthew wrote, “So the last will be first, and the first will be last.”, we have prime seats to be in close proximity to the Holy Father both at the Entrance Procession, and again as he carries the baby Jesus to place in the Nativity crib.

Swiss Guards - a palpable air of expectation waiting for the Mass to begin.

Pope Francis, a much shorter man than I imagined, in the Opening Procession

rumpets blare, and a long colourful Procession of Cardinals all clothed in cream vestments enters from right next to where we are standing. There’s a palpable touch of pageantry, but not as much perhaps as much as in the past, with this new Pope preferring more simple celebrations.

To my surprise, Pope Francis is shorter, and perhaps older looking in the flesh.The simplicity of his vestments makes it difficult to distinguish him at first from the others in the Procession.

THIS VIDEO shares but five minutes of the two-hour Mass, music and spectacle, culminating with the Procession to the Nativity Crib with Pope Francis carrying the baby Jesus.

View our Christmas with Pope Francis PHOTOS: CLICK HERE

I’ve arrived at one big New Year’s resolution! And there’s more than a couple of friends whom I know will keep me to it (will try anyway)!

For greater enjoyment of the moment, and with consideration of my continuing good health, there has to be a limit to what I can do in ‘capturing the moments and committing them to blog and Facebook while on the road’. 

S

tarting from this very exciting Christmas with friends in Rome, I’m doing less ‘chronicling’. I’m trying to be satisfied just letting the captions tell the story . . . (and I’m already ‘anxious’ about not having a ‘perfect’ pictorial and written record of the trip).

Added to that, you can’t imagine how much internal pressure is on me to ‘make the movie’ using the excellent clips and photos of Pope Francis that I shot at Midnight Mass in St Peter’s, and again from standing up amongst the saints on the wall to the right of the main balcony of St Peter’s with the Pope delivering his Urbi et Orbi Christmas Message to the World.

In St Peter's Basilica - Michael I, Ricardo, Michael M

View Photos from our Visit to the Vatican Museums (It’s not too difficult to see that I liked the paintings in the Raphael Rooms):
CLICK HERE

Other photos from Rome CLICK HERE

n the car driving from Fiumicino to the hotel in Rome late in the afternoon on the day before Christmas . . . (after two long overnight flights from Cape Town via Dubai) . . . I turn on my iPhone.

Hearing the familiar ding, and expecting only the usual telephone welcome from a local company, you can imagine my excitement on receiving news that we have the tickets for Midnight Mass at St Peter’s tomorrow, with Pope Francis officiating. I’d given up on getting tickets long ago. But, American Express Lifestyle has delivered!

There’s but two precious minutes left in the dying battery of my iPhone, and I have to respond before the people with the tickets go home!

Invitations to Christmas Mass at St Peter's with Pope Francis presiding

hen Edmundo receives two calls, one from a South American Embassy advising that they are sending five tickets for Midnight Mass by courier to the hotel.

In this envelope, we also receive Invitations from the Secretary of State of the Vatican

View Photos and captions that elaborate on the story: CLICK HERE

ne of those sunny days in Cape Town that’s ideal for stocking up on shots for future Facebook profiles and the like. And Table Mountain across the sea is not a bad backdrop for ‘posing’.

Valerio and Michael looking back over Table Mountain in Capetown

Our guide from five years ago, calm and ever-helpful Valerio, pulls another rabbit out of the hat, (and also gets a slice of the little animal on his plate at a wonderful lunch), with his choice of ‘Camphors’ Restaurant – just a walk through the beautifully manicured grounds of the 18th century Vergelegen Wine Estate in the Western Cape.

I thought I was past ‘garden tours’, and definitely so in century temperatures. But, today’s visit to Vergelegen is a most enjoyable exception to my own rule. Hydrangeas in bloom make a carpet of blue under the trees as far as the eye can see, and African lily (Agapanthus) in shades of blue and white stand tall in full sun. I ‘m partial to the potager kitchen garden all tidily laid out in hedged, symmetrical beds too.

Entrance to Vergelegen Wine Estate with its 18th century symmetrical plans and ornate gardens.

Artichoke bloom in the hedged potager kitchen garden

Then its time for lunch – ‘Camphors’ is named after huge 300 year-old Camphor Laurel trees in the grounds. (I know camphor laurels. There was a huge one in a neighbour’s property in front of my Bellevue Hill home that cost me $300 to get three branches cut off to let the sun through to my herb garden.)

“The menu reflects a cuisine style that shows simple restraint with complex precision whilst supporting only local producers”, says the Menu. And they’re not wrong. We enjoy a most delicious, innovative, inviting, and surprisingly inexpensive lunch by Aussie standards ($50). I’ll let the photos tell the story.

Strawberry coulis - An unusual addition to the selection of six amuse-bouche at 'Camphors' Restaurant in the Vergelegen Wine Estate

Amuse-bouche - Crisp tapioca and edible flowers and Cod bacalhau balls on creamed pumpkin sauce

Hake and Saldanha Bay Oysters broccoli purée, sprouting broccoli, and almond elderberry butter

able Mountain is outside my window as we lie at anchor waiting for Immigration or the tugboat to come take us to the Passenger Terminal in Cape Town. . It’s the first time I am seeing this so recognizable landmark without fog and clouds.

View Photos: CLICK HERE

Edmundo and Michael at Boschendal Winery with Simonsberg Mountains as a backdrop near Franschhoek, outside Cape Town

oday, it’s off to the Winelands but by-passing Stellenbosch and going on into a nearby valley at Franschhoek. Vines cover hillsides under blue skies in so many wonderful old vineyards established by French Hugenots centuries ago. Our first stop is at Boschendal Winery set with the Simonsberg Mountains as a striking backdrop, and then past fields of lavender and excellent examples of the ‘Cape Dutch’ architecture in the town. (Hopefully, I’ll get some photos when we drive in the other direction tomorrow.)

Tour guide and old friend Valerio has reservations at a couple of places for lunch, and chooses one up the hill, La Petite Ferme, with wonderful views back over the valley. I choose an impressive Chilled Soup of beetroot, strawberries, and ginger but can’t find it in the recipe book at the front counter to get an idea of the ‘balance’ for ingredients. I’ll just have to recreate by trial and error. Or ask Anne or Pam.

Chilled Beetroot, Strawberry and Ginger Soup

Lavender fields in the Franschhoek Valley, outside Cape Town

Chantal takes a liking to us after a gruff maître d’ sits us ‘inside’! Thanks to her, we enjoy the meal ‘outside’ with the best views, and a breeze.