Maccheroncelli in an Umbrian hilltop town – Orvieto

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e decide to give Rome a miss today and head north east from the port of Civitavecchia to the Italian hilltop town of Orvieto in Umbria. I want to revisit the brilliantly coloured chapel of St Brizio in the Cathedral (more correctly the Capella della Madonna di San Brizio) – famous for the fresco cycle by Luca Signorelli (painted 1499 – 1503) depicting visions of paradise, hell and the end of the world; and then take time to enjoy lunch in the countryside.

Rather than disappoint, grey skies present another perspective, favourable, in which to view the golden mosaics that adorn the facade of the 14th century Cathedral. Regrettably, a change of lighting, (and not for the better), along with some deterioration of colour in the frescoes in the St Brizio chapel is a disappointment this time.

Golden mosaics adorn the facade of the 14th century Cathedral of Orvieto dedicated to the Assumption of Mary

The Luca Signorelli St Brizio Chapel in the Cathedral of the Assumption in Orvieto. Many of the people going there in the 1500s would have believed that the end of the world and the day of judgement were due at any moment. Talk about a fear driven religion - or was it just that Signorelli liked painting naked male bodies?

Enrico recommended Restaurant Altarocca, offering organic products from their own farm – a selection of local cured meats and home made marinated salmon caught in local streams. Maccheroncelli with pepper and ewe’s cheese and seasoned pork cheek made for a wonderful pasta dish. The vino was from their own vineyard, a soft Orvieto white.

Couldn't pass-up this very 'Roman Holiday' photo opp.