Our Neighbours in Timor

T

he word neighbour derives from those near-by. When the neighbour is drawn into the exchange of kindnesses, our human-ness is enhanced by the enabling of goodness.

This is what the relationship between St Canice Elizabeth Bay parish and the Jesuit Mission in Railaco is all about – simply being neighbourly, the mutual comfort each of us derive from having good neighbours.

Introduction to the Immersion Experience

We are ambassadors of St Canice Parish in its long-time involvement with Railaco.

Our visit to Timor is an ‘immersion’ experience. As ordinary people, we go to Railaco to listen to the voices of others who speak of ordinary needs.

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Smooth sailing for two days through the heart of the ‘Bermuda Triangle’ between Bahamas and Bermuda on Ponant’s ‘Le Boreal’.  At dock in St George Bermuda

mooth sailing for two days through the heart of the ‘Bermuda Triangle’ on Ponant’s ‘Le Boreal’ between Bahamas and Bermuda, (with the Atlantic Ocean up to five kilometers deep in places).

Bermuda, is a British Overseas Territory UNESCO World Heritage municipality. We dock away from the capital on St. George’s Island, the territory’s first English settlement. Would I want to live here? No!

The homes are built in the Bermuda tradition and sit amongst trees and gardens on the side of hills dipping down into a green sea. All have a ridged white roof treated with lime and designed to capture rain water. The walls are painted in bright pastel colours and make for a quaint experience, but that’s where my fascination ends.

The homes have a ridged white roof treated with lime and designed to capture rain water, and the walls are painted in bright pastel colours

It was from here in Bermuda that in early 17th century that British colonists landed in Jamestown, Virginia, to help replenish the dwindling colonists. They provided the starving Jamestown folk with food brought from Bermuda and, via John Rolfe, one of the new arrivals from Bermuda, provided them with tobacco found growing in Bermuda which later became a major American industry.

The capital Hamilton, at the other end of the island is the financial hub. Most of the quaint buildings there have now been replaced by glass and steel.

My fellow sailors, Jim and Eddy have settled in to this lazy life at sea very easily.

A fine Swiss specimen amongst the blooms - Eddy

Amex days on three continents hold many memories. But none so important as friendships forged. Leaving Hector and Dolores behind in Phoenix last weekend, I land in Miami to stay with old friend Edmundo. Perhaps it’s through the depth of his close friendships that I, in turn, have made so many good friends here over the years. One week is not enough.

And, this evening, two more Amex friends of nearly fifty years will come to dinner at Edmundo’s – Eddy from London and Jim from New York. We three ‘old farts’ are embarking on a two-week cruise across the Atlantic tomorrow on Ponant, the French shipping line – to Lisbon. First stop the Bahamas, where yet another Amex alma mater from London Days, Robert will entertain us.

Chocolate Easter eggs from Brazilian friend Ricardo - with crushed Brazil nuts make wonderful Easter gifts.

A rose (Tere) among the thorns - Hailing from many countries of the Americas - 3 Cubans, 2 Brazilians, 1 Venezuelan and 1 USA

Reynier and Natalie

Happy Easter to all!

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REUNION OF FOUR WHO FAREWELLED AMEX IN THE 1990’S
Edmundo Perez-de Cobos hosted a wonderful dinner party this evening in his home in Coral Gables to mark a reunion of four old Amex friends, all of whom retired in the 90’s. Michael from Frankfurt; Eddy from London; Edmundo from Mexico City, and Jim from Moscow.

Edmundo, Michael, Eddy and Jim at Edmundo's home in Coral Gables

This ancient iconography is very profound; it encapsulates the true Easter message; death and resurrection; the gift of Christian Hope that all we baptised believe is ours forever, with Him, in heaven when we die.

Jesus descends into the underworld after his death. We see him surrounded by the key characters of the Old Testament – the royalty, the prophets and law-givers. Under him all the instruments of death are falling into the abyss with the bound-up Satan.

Yet his first task – quite phenomenologically – is to take Adam and Eve physically by the hand and to wrench their bodies from the grave.

My mother always told me that ‘we are on this earth for but a short time, on our way to our eternal reward’. As I head towards eighty, her words ring ever loudly.

Susan Kelley and I worked together in Amex New York back in 1975. We were both 34 when my mother Connie braved the journey on Pan Am all the way from Sydney to visit me; and Susan entertained us to Tea on the front terrace of her Gramercy Park Manhattan brownstone. (Mum was most pleased that I had met such a nice lady. The fact that Susan was married didn’t seem to come into the equation.)

Tonight, Edmundo Perez-de Cobos, my good friend and my host here in Miami, and I drive up to Miami Shores in his noisy new soft-top convertible red Fiat 500 to have drinks and dinner with Susan and Bill. Again, such welcoming hospitality with the many decades passed counting for nought.

Four ‘Scotties’s scurry to meet us but Cupcake and Winston insist on sitting on laps for a photo shoot.

Four ‘Scotties’s scurry to meet us but Cupcake and Winston insist on sitting on laps of Michael Musgrave and Susan Kelley for a photo shoot.

Simple sightseeing pleasures made all the more pleasurable with simple home hospitality by Hector and Dolores at their home in Phoenix. How many years is it since we were working together in London, and eldest daughter Alexandra’s wedding in Madrid? Three decades and four grandchildren later, we are together again kicking-back with a coffee, stroking nuzzling dogs, and catching-up in the comfort of home as if it were yesterday.

Saturday morning, a walk down Main Street of old Scottsdale reminds me of my first visit to Arizona with Des Whelan while attending my first Amex ‘Outer Space’ Meeting in 1971. (From here we flew in light planes to the Grand Canyon and on to Las Vegas. I’m not sure whether this ‘boy from the bush’ (as Des would taunt me) truly understood how lucky he was to be doing things like at age 28, and every year till moving to the US to work five years later.)

Then, tacos in America had to be ticked off my list. That done, Hector and I drive out to the Desert Botanical Gardens to meet Dolores and go walk through the blooming cactus and other desert plants in colourful Spring bloom.

Driving home, and stopping-by their local Franciscan church, preparations are well under way for Palm Sunday services outdoors ‘on the grass’ in the shade of tall palm trees.

We skip this in favour of going to Mass in the morning, in Sedona, a couple of hours drive north. The ‘greeting’ from smiling ladies and gentlemen (who must have abandoned their walkers to get up and welcome us), and a well-meaning choir of white- haired songstresses make it a little difficult to concentrate on the Mass.

Lunch at Mariposa Grill with Hector and Dolores in Sedona, Arizona

A road-trip to Monument Valley has always been on my ‘to do’ list, but I’m running out of years. The red in the mountains and rocky outcrops in mountains surrounding Sedona has more than satisfied my hankering. And to stop for lunch, at a restaurant, magically located right on a bluff with full view of the surrounding red mountains and outcrops, puts the icing on the cake. A few extra squeezes of fresh lime into my Margarita made for a grand welcome cocktail as we settle in to our prize dress-circle table and wait for lunch to be served.

CHERRY BLOSSOM TIME
Seeing cherry blossoms in bloom is the main focus of this, my first visit to Tokyo in 50+ years. And the sun is shining on a perfect blue-sky day.

My ‘tours by locals’ guide Hiroshi, a calm retired businessman, is somewhat non-plussed with the request, but with a little zigzagging around Tokyo in trains and taxis respectfully playing to my eccentricity, he delivers in spades (and blooming blossoms).

I wonder what the excitement is about?

Walking through the fish market stalls, there is no cherry blossom; only fish. But a quick taxi ride away, and a walk in the park, I’m rewarded. Blossoms keep falling on my head in the cold gusts of wind, (even land on my lip as you’ll see in one of the photos). Trellises of budding wisteria around the lake trigger a momentary impulse to return in a month’s time for more joy and beauty. (“By learning to see and appreciate beauty, we learn to reject self-interested pragmatism,” so says Pope Francis in ‘Laudate Si’.)

A stop for a cup of the bitter ‘matcha’ green tea in a traditional Japanese teahouse on the lake presents an opportunity to know little more about the growth of Tokyo since my last visit. Away in the distance through today’s soaring skyscrapers is Tokyo Tower, the tallest building in all of Tokyo back in 1966, even taller than the Eifel Tower.

I am not expecting to see Mt Fuji, but Hiroshi knows just the 40th floor vantage point. The winds have blown all clouds away, and there it is in all its glory in the distance, beyond the glass, framed by Tokyo Tower and taller office buildings.

I wonder why most of the other diners in our stop for a Teppanyaki fish lunch are decidedly more elderly (and quieter) than the masses on the streets. Surely it couldn’t be the ten-dollar price tag? No, the owner once ran this as a leading seafood restaurant before the tall building was built, and older customers (including Hiroshi obviously) continue to patronise his establishment.

Seemingly half-way around Tokyo by train and we alight at Ueno Park with its five-storey Buddhist Pagoda and golden Shinto Toshogu shrine; in the gardens, giant peony blooms, sheltered from the sun under paper parasols, add the colour to replace the now fading cherry blossoms floating in the wind.

The cherry blossom was also important to the samurai of feudal Japan; it was their duty to simultaneously realise the inevitably to death and release any fear of it. Their lives, marked by battle and conflict, were often cut short, and the fallen cherry blossom became the symbol of that short life.

Requiescant in Pace

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DESMOND WHELAN Liturgy Booklet Click to read.

BE THOU MY VISION

 

FR STEVE INTRODUCTION

EULOGY – Michael Musgrave

EULOGY – Ray Harris

READINGS – Lily Horneman

1 Corinthians 13:4-7, 11-13
A reading from the first letter of St Paul to the Corinthians.

Love is patient, love is kind, Love is not envious or boastful or arrogant or rude.
It does not insist on its own way; it is not irritable or resentful; it does not rejoice in wrong-doing but rejoices in the truth.
It bears all things, believes all things, endures all things. Love never ends.

When I was a child, I thought like a child, I reasoned like a child; when I became an adult, I put an end to childish ways.
For now we see in a mirror, dimly, but then we shall see face to face.
Now I know only in part, then I will know fully, even as I have been fully known.

And now, faith, hope and love abide, these three; and the greatest of these is love.

POEM ‘The Isle of Innisfree’ by W B Yeats – Lily Horneman

I will arise and go now, and go to Innisfree,
And a small cabin build there, of clay and wattles made;
Nine bean-rows will I have there, a hive for the honeybee,
And live alone in the bee-loud glade.

And I shall have some peace there, for peace comes dropping slow,

Dropping from the veils of the morning to wear the cricket sings;

There midnight’s all the glimmer, and noon a purple glow,

And evening full of the linnet’s wings.

 

I will arise and go now, for always night and day

I hear lake water lapping with low sounds by the shore;

While I stand on the roadway, or on the pavements grey,

I hear it in the deep heart’s core.

HOMILY – Fr Steve Sinn SJ

Fr Steve Homily transcript Click to read.

I’m glad there are many rooms because there are rooms for all of us in my Father’s house. There’s no one way. It’s interesting to hear that story. ‘When I told you that I’m going to prepare a place for you’. It’s a lovely stanza, ‘He’s gone before us and he’s prepared a place for us, each one of us. If I’ve gone to do that, I will return and take you to myself, so that whereby you also will be’. So that again is a lovely image that He can’t be without us.

And it’s a kind of image that we kind of had a taste of that with Des. He had gone to prepare a place for us, whether it was around a BBQ, around a bar, so that where he is, we are. We’ve had a little taste of the future.

And the one who said that He has been through death and promised to take us to himself to the place he has prepared for us. When that promise says, ‘but we don’t know where we’re going’, he says, ‘you know the way’. We say ‘we don’t know the way’, but then we do. There’s no book. The way is the relationship. ‘I am the way’. There’re no descriptions, no rules. It’s a relationship we have with one another. It’s the way. We know that in our hearts, and Des embodied that. He was priestly. He showed us the way. He showed us the power of communion; the power of relationships; the power of being together. So this is the truth. This is the way. This is what life is.

And so I just thank Des for showing us the way, and the truth and the life.

 

Ave Maria (Schubert)

 
 
The Parting Glass – last few lines

 
 
Go Silent Friend

 
 
Galway Bay

 
 
(to come)
 
 
 
 

here’s lots to like about the ‘French’ touches on this Ponant 30th Anniversary Cruise on which we’ll be sailing to little visited islands of the South Pacific, and east to French Polynesia. Pity I left my reef shoes and ‘budgie smugglers’ at home. I learn that there’s a lot more wet landings and ‘swimming in idyllic waters’ opportunities than I imagined.

wonderful twilight dinner at the Blau Weiss Tennis Club with hostess Carla Eysel and friends in this very leafy setting and sporting establishment of Berlin-Grunewald since 1899.

In this ‘enclave of privilege’, large families gather for a meal, and attractive young people relax (in their regulation white tennis gear), chatting after their games, (and then pay with dad’s credit card). I can only hope that their education gives them an appreciation for the ‘want’ that exists in the world. An intriguing feature is seeing that all are well-versed in the ‘art of conversation’ and none has their nose in a mobile phone!

So much more laughter and conversation here in the late afternoon than when we were ‘trapped’ on a cruise boat drifting along the River Spree taking in the sights and forests of both East and West Berlin yesterday. (And waiting for the water to empty at two locks along the way) for nearly four hours thinking that this will never end.

If this were a first time for a cruise on the upper deck of the slow-moving boat, it would be most interesting, with Berlin having more waterways and bridges than Venice. However, yesterday‘s experience with pollinated white wisps of irritation (loosed from the newly-greened trees in the wind) flying up the nose and in the eyes and down my throat was quite a trial.

Thank you, Frank for the river cruise and later for the Sicilian ‘snack’ and bottles of wine. And thank you Carla for the wonderful farewell meal as the sun disappeared over the white-clad players on the clay tennis courts and the evening cooled down.

arents entrust their sons from a young age to the care of the Cantors at the Thomaskirche in Leipzig for their education and training as choristers up until they are ready to attend university.

Johann Sebastian Bach was one of these cantors for twenty-seven years here at the Thomaskirche back in the 18th century. He was hired by the City of Leipzig to compose music for special Court and Church occasions, and to develop the choir.

We attend a special performance of the St Thomas Boy’s Choir and sit in pews ‘choir style’ so as to get a good view of the organ and the choir. I simply close my eyes and ‘imagine’ during the Bach organ solo pieces.

MUSIC – The significance of Leipzig is so much more than the music of Johann Sebastian Bach. Here in the mid-18th century, as Cantor of the Thomaskirche, Bach composed most of his music.

We enjoy listening to the students of the University playing the Bach organ (newly constructed to replicate the identical musical tones as that used by Bach himself in the 18th century). Tomorrow evening, we are going to hear the St Thomas Boys Choir, (whose history dates back to the year 1212), singing in the church.

LEARNING – More than forty thousand students attend University here in Leipzig. Many are studying the Humanities or attending the famous Medical School.

Leipzig is also the home of Goethe, a literary celebrity by the age of 25, who was ennobled by the Duke of Saxe-Weimar in 1782 after taking up residence here. Students from all around the world come to study German here in the Goethe Institute.

The over-filled outdoor cafés and bars, so noisy with laughing and conversation is testament to this. And it is the season of white asparagus. Wundabar!
TRADE – In the middle ages, Leipzig was the cross roads of Europe’s trade routes – from France in the west to Russia in the East, and Italy in the south to the Baltic Sea in the north. Leipzig remains a major centre of trade today with its Trade Fairs that commenced centuries ago.

It was here five hundred years ago that Martin Luther translated the Bible from Greek into German for the first time. And with the advent of the printing press around the same time, Luther was able to have the ‘Word’ distributed throughout the land, and also disseminate leaflets explaining his disagreements with the Church of Rome.
REUNIFICATION – Prior to the reunification of East and West Germany in 1990, Leipzig was a major industrial centre with eight hundred factories, coal mines, and no protection of the environment; in fact, choking pollution. All factories closed and there was ninety percent unemployment.

Porsche, BMW, DHL and other companies lead the return of industries after the Reunification, and today Leipzig is a thriving city with unemployment at just seven percent.
THE PEACE MOVEMENT – In 1982, even under the rule of the dictatorial German Democratic Government, a Lutheran Reverend at the Nikolaikirche here in the centre of old Leipzig, started weekly ‘Peace Prayer’ gatherings in the church.

This movement developed the momentum that eventually influenced the collapse of the Berlin Wall seven years later. In October 1989, the Military, in tanks, surrounded the church of people defying orders from the State Security to cease the Movement. Ten thousand other people gathered in the Square outside.
The famous conductor, Kurt Masur, loved by the people, broadcast a message into the square, “We want peace. We want calm”. Soldiers were listening to this local hero, and no order was given to shoot.

The Reverend then told the people inside to leave the church, carrying a candle at their breasts, and shouting out, ‘No violence”. The Military phoned Security HQ where there was no answer. They then phoned East Berlin, while the crowds swelled to seventy thousand people and marched to Headquarters of the State Security demanding change.
This was followed by a Peaceful Revolution in which half a million people from all over the GDR marched on the State Security Headquarters again, and occupied it.
One month later, the Berlin Wall came down!

OLD FRIENDS – Four of us, who have shared friendship since our days working with Amex, are here on this little adventure, and to share a reunion.

You might say that we are privileged to receive keys of the city during our special sightseeing tour in Dresden today.

My old friend, Fr Frank introduces us to another of his ‘colleagues’ from his years in the seminary. Fr Christian is a local man, not only well-versed and ready to explain all about this beautiful ‘royal’ town, but also one who carries the keys to the Royal tombs located under the Katholische Hofkirche. This was once the Catholic Church of the Royal Court of Saxony and is located on the square next to the Castle.

But first, we meet the affable Fr Christian in the Old Market Square and start with a visit to the imposing Protestant Frauenkirche. After lying as rubble for decades since World War II, this imposing edifice has finally been rebuilt using 45% of the blackened original stones. The church was not bombed, but in the bombing of surrounding houses by the British towards the end of the War, the building simply collapsed in the heat (like the World Trade Centre in New York in 2001).

The enormity of its circular tiered-interior with decorations in soft colours of a ‘Bauern Baroque’ (farmer’s simple baroque) style, catches my eye. Inside of the dome contains paintings of the Evangelists and the Virtues (better appreciated when seen enlarged in the viewfinder of my camera).

We then walk along the impressive outer wall of Dresden Castle (known as the Fürstenzug, Procession of Princes). It is the largest porcelain artwork in the world, 100 metres in length, made of twenty-three thousand Meissen porcelain tiles. It features a mounted procession of the rulers of Saxony from the twelfth to twentieth century, Including one of August the Strong, The Catholic King of Saxony (which incorporated much of present-day Poland at the time), with his horse stepping on a red rose, the symbol of Protestantism at the time.

Now, for the keys not of the city but to the crypt, to view these Royal ‘catacombs’ of large bronze tombs, and hear the stories that embrace the history. The Saxons were also the Kings of Poland during those centuries and all are buried here in the Catholic Hofkirche, previously the Catholic Church of the Royal Court of Saxony.

In the crypt, there’s a shrine for the eminent ruler, August the Strong, with the message, “I have to be buried where the Kings of Poland are buried, in Krakow, but my heart belongs to Dresden”, and we see this heart, in bronze, next to the tomb of his wife, who bore him sixteen children. Harkening back to the Fürstenzug, the mural of Meissen porcelain tiles, we now better understand a detail in his portrait showing his horse stepping on a rose, the symbol of Protestantism.

Back to the world of the living, and we find ourselves in an empty Catholic Hofkirche. As if by a divine signal, as we enter, the organ begins to play a rousing welcome. The organist is rehearsing for a special Ordination Mass tomorrow, not for us. But we sit and enjoy anyway.

In a local restaurant, just off the wonderful Promenade overlooking the River Elbe, a dish of beef, marinated in sweet black beer with spiced apple and dumplings, and red sauerkraut is my lunch treat.

Now time to drive back to Leipzig in time for a special performance of the St Thomas Boy’s Choir. We sat in pews ‘choir style’ (like Fr Steve Sinn introduced at St Canice St Canice’s KingsCross Sydney ) not so much as to ‘create community’ but so as to avoid a stiff neck turning around to get a good view of the organ and the choir. I simply closed my eyes and ‘imagined’ during the organ solo pieces.

Thomaskirche in Leipzig is where Bach composed so much of his music for Church and Court occasions. He was also cantor and the instructor of the boys in the choir there back in the 18 century…

apoleon was defeated here in 1813, but Eddy and I march on!

I first met long-time Swiss friend Eddy in 1972. We were in a seaplane flying to an Amex meeting at Kawau Island on the North Island of New Zealand.
Now, forty-six years later, we are meeting-up with other Amex friends in Leipzig, Germany.

While others recover from jetlag this morning, Eddy and I go out to visit the Monument to the Battle of the Nations, which opened in 1913. This is built on the site of an historic battle here in Leipzig in 1893. The unified armed forces of Russia, Prussia, Austria and Sweden prevailed in a decisive victory over Napoleon and his allies on German soil.

This incredible stone temple is a monument to death, victory, and fantasy architecture. It’s impressive, but has a very cold, militaristic feel. Nothing like the ‘roundness and warmth’ that creates a sense of community as in Byzantine architecture that we came to appreciate from Fannie our guide in Greece earlier this week.

I walked up too many steps and now the left cheek of my derrière is reminding me with sharp jolts of pain. Thankfully, intermittent rolls of thunder and rain beating on the window pane as I lie on the bed seems to soothe it some.

Thessaloniki is the second city of Greece. We all ask ourselves how this very lively spot on the Aegean Sea seemed to be off our radars for so long.
 

Enjoying an easy morning of sightseeing in Thessaloniki

 
What brought us here to northern Greece were two archaeological sites not far from Thessaloniki, at Vergina and at Pella.

As we soon discover, Thessaloniki is well worth the visit too, and the archaeological sites are so much more than a ‘pile of old stones in a dusty landscape’!

Far from it. This is the home of Alexander the Great, and the commencement of the Greek Hellenistic period.

What draws our interest is that the discoveries are so recent. World class small museums have been constructed on the actual sites where the palaces and tombs were discovered. Both sites are within easy driving distance of Greece’s lively and youthful second city, Thessaloniki.

Vergina

Vergina is best known as the site of ancient Aigai, the first capital of Macedon. It was there when in 336 BC Philip II was assassinated in the theatre and Alexander the Great was proclaimed king. The ancient site of this first capital of the Kingdom of Macedonia, was discovered in the 19th century.

The most important remains are the monumental palace, lavishly decorated with mosaics and painted stuccoes, and the burial ground with more than 300 tumuli, some of which date from the 11th century B.C. One of the royal tombs in the Great Tumulus is identified as that of Philip II, who conquered all the Greek cities, paving the way for his son Alexander and the expansion of the Hellenistic world. It was discovered in 1976 and excavated under the leadership of Greek archaeologist Manolis Andronikos.

What’s fascinating is that the Museum is built underground ‘around the actual tombs’! They are still intact! Exquisite, precious items of gold and finely carved ivory miniatures were found in the tombs. They are beautifully displayed along with other funerary objects placed in the tombs for their use in the afterlife.

When Philip II’s tomb was discovered, it was so well camouflaged. It was never disturbed or looted as so many others before this. It was such a surprise for Andronikos, who realised that his years of work finally proved that this place was the site of the traditional capital Macedonian Kingdom of 2,400 years ago.

This discovery has current day political significance too, as it proves that Macedonia is in mainland Greece. The claim of the bordering state in the former Yugoslavia, to be the real Macedonia, is simply not true.

Edmundo and the statue of Alexander the Great in Thessaloniki

 

Pella

Philip and his son Alexander were born in Pella. Here, we see a re-creation of the Summer Palace of the Macedonian dynasty. It’s a large building with a rectangular atrium – as a reference to the central peristyle courtyard of ancient houses in Pella.

We walk easily through four themed well-curated rooms. It’s so easy to understand aspects of daily and public life in ancient Pella. We view amazing original mosaics lifted from Pella’s sanctuaries (the carefully chosen pebble used as the eye of the deer is of a size and has the right angles and colour that brings the animal to life). And, in another thematic group on a higher floor, we see the findings from the city’s cemeteries.

Our guide helps us to know so much more about the mighty Alexander. He was a student of Aristotle, but also learned much from his father as to how to respect and govern his people. It’s hard to believe that he lead his first campaign at the age 18 and was dead by the time he was only 31.

He was a brave leader, a man of the people, who conquered lands all the way east as far as India. His great legacy was uniting his people in one great state.

Alexander had a ‘deep appreciation’ for his friend, the handsome Macedonian fellow warrior, Hephaistion. In those days, it was very customary for members of Alexander’s Army to take fellow soldiers as lovers while away on Campaigns. It is said that this made them all the braver as they had strong motivation to protect each other when going into battle.

Alexander married the beautiful Roxana of Bactria, and fathered at least one child, Alexander IV of Macedon, born of Roxana shortly after his death in 323 BC.

n a region of almost inaccessible sandstone peaks, monks settled on these ‘columns of the sky’ from the 11th century onwards.

We left the cruise this morning. After getting through the morning traffic of Athens, we headed straight up Highway 1 to the east coast town of Lamia, on the Aegean Sea where we stopped at a Greek Fish Tavern for lunch. Then on to Meteora.

We couldn’t wait till tomorrow to go see these amazing monasteries on pillars of amazing rock carved by nature over many millennia. So I bring you into the picture, and share a couple of pics tonight.

Next morning, we brave the 169 steps winding up to the top of one of the pillars of rock, the mountain, to visit the Varlaam Monastery.

On the way up, we can see that the unique ‘geological formations’ like pillars of stone here in Meteora are no more than small stones and rocks that have washed down from rivers past over the millennia. What remains are these hardened pillars on which many monasteries have been built.

We are fortunate to witness first-hand how all this came to pass, and still exists today with seven monks living in this particular monastery.. The story is worth reading.

In 1350, an ascetic monk named Varlaam climbed this great rock and settled at the top. He built three churches, a cell for himself and a water tank. No one chose to follow his lead, so after his death the site was abandoned.

In the early 16th century, two priest-monks ascended the rock and founded a monastery. They renovated Varlaam’s church of the Three Hierarchs, erected the tower, and built a katholikon (1541-42) dedicated to All Saints. We visit this today and hear the monks singing.

Using ropes, pulleys and baskets, it took 22 years to hoist all the building materials to the top of the rock. Once everything was at the top, the construction work took only 20 days.

Varlaam Monastery was continuously occupied by monks (about 35 at a time) throughout the 16th century and into the early 17th century, after which it began to decline. Steps were first carved into the rock in the early 19th century and have been altered several times since.

The frescoes in the main church were painted by the celebrated iconographer Frangos Katelanos of Thebes in 1548 (the date is inscribed on the south wall). They appear as colourful today as they must have when first painted.

Our guide Fannie described in evocative terms the different symbolism in the architecture of ‘Gothic’ Catholic churches and ‘Byzantine’ Orthodox churches.

Fanny explained that the pointed arch of a Gothic cathedral ceiling was designed to draw the eye up and reflected the belief that ‘God was in heaven’, while the curved dome and ceiling of a Byzantine church reflected the belief that God dwelled in the church ‘among the people’. This thought is also reinforced in the art and beauty of the church.

We see in the old tower the old windlass and rope basket (1536), which used to transport monks and supplies to the monastery. When asked how often the rope was replaced, a 19th-century abbot famously replied, “Only when it breaks.” It was used as recently as 1961-63, when the refectory was renovated into a museum of religious artefacts.

View the Google Photos Album here.

 

he Photo Albums below have both pictures and a short story about the highlights of our travels to these touristy but fascinating places, (done the right way, of course).

If you click on the map, a slideshow of all the photos in the body of the Silver Wind blog post will commence.

In many of the ports, we have private transportation arranged in advance, with the added comfort of keeping much to our own pace. As days go on, we start later, and return to the ship after lunch, beautifully ‘dulled’ by wine and ready for a snooze.

‘Easy does it’ is what holidays are all about, no?

Our itinerary - from Barcelona, and Rome

 
 

Paestum

uch excitement this morning as Juanita flutters her eye lashes at the Cruise Director and ‘talks’ her way to front of the queue. This ensures our little private group of nine is on the first tender ashore to Sorrento where our vehicles to the Greek Temples at Paestum await.  A beautiful day, but such a heavy swell that boarding the tenders safely might be a problem, and transfers ashore might be abandoned. Fate is kind, and Annie shows her grit holding on to sailors both on the bobbing floating pontoon and at the rising and falling tender.

After departing the port, we drive by the base of Mount Vesuvius and drive for a couple of hours south passing the headland of Eboli to arrive at one of the most well-preserved collections of Greek Temples anywhere in Europe – in Paestum. Originally created as a tribute to the Greek god Poseidon, we learn about the history of this ancient period.

Since 1988, UNESCO has recognized Paestum as a World Heritage Site. Unlike the busy Pompeii and even Herculaneum, Paestum has very few tourists. The ancient Greek temples dating back to the 6th century BC provide a uniquely Greek experience in Italy.

The group of nine in front of the Temple of Hera in Paestum

We roam through the ruins with our guide to see three temples including the preserved temple of Hera II (once mistakenly believed to be the Temple of Poseidon).

Being our first excursion, and lots of traffic on the roads around Amalfi, there are ‘some’ in our number fretting that the ship might ‘go without them’. So, we cancel the planned stop in Ravello on the way back in favour of going to a little family restaurant in Vietri sul Mare, near Salerno. What a treat!

Edmundo and Shenagh - time for many a laugh between delicious home-made regional specialties at L Playa Trattoria (near Salerno)

Here at the simple La Playa Trattoria, a young husband and wife, (friends of our driver host, Rosario), rustle-up a lunch of regional specialities, marinated anchovies, octopus salad, tomatoes, insalata caprese, tuna lemon balls, and to think that I would like sardines stuffed with mozzarella and deep fried would be stretching it – before I tasted these!

Of course, we make it back to the Silver Wind in time! And the sea has calmed.

 
 

Taormina

A little fun on our way to lunch in Taormina - Juanita, Edmundo and Frank

The Baronessa Juanita continues on her magical mythical journey of the Mediterranean islands aboard ‘Silver Wind’ – in the good company of El Duque Edmundo, Baron von Michael, und the German Pfarrer Frank-Michael, Shenagh, Trevor and Anne, Ken and Pam.

Taormina is a destination that we’ve visited before. On a little stroll (through throngs of locals enjoying a sunny Public Holiday) we decide that the best thing to do is to enjoy some lunch in a quiet trattoria.

 
 

Corfu, Greece

I found the main square and the colonnaded building where Alan and I enjoyed Greek meatballs for lunch on a cruise here some fifteen years ago. But, this time the old town beckoned, and it was so much more interesting, Silver Wind is in port till late this evening, so back we go to town for a Greek meal – will report later.

Juanita, Ken, Pam, Frank and Edmundo in Corfu

 
 

Ithaca, Greece

Which one of us represents Ulysses, the legendary Greek king of Ithaca and the hero of Homer’s epic poem the Odyssey today?  However, we’re not returning to the waiting wife Penelope after fighting the Trojan Wars for ten years; we’ve barely travelled ten hours from our last port of Corfu.

Finally ashore by tender after a lazy morning, there’s hardly a soul in sight Edmundo and I ‘hire’ the only cab on the rank here in downtown Vathi. This is the largest little town on the whole Island of Ithaca. Off the beaten track we go, rattling in our ageing Toyota Camry around the sea before changing gears to chug and rattle around hairpin bends as we wind up the mountain side to visit a monastery; all but deserted, but affording good views back down to Vathi.

Cypress sprout out of olive groves and rock on one side of the mountain, but simply add height to the forested sides on the other. Simple little houses up here but no people visible. Occasional clumps of red or pink roses suggest that someone does care. The birds singing are the only real signs of life. Descending to small towns on the north shore, a little more colour and life, with more blooming roses and bougainvillea, and loquat trees laden in yellow fruit in the back yards.

We skip through the small town of Stavros (tourist buses sighted), and Frikes, and continue around to an all but deserted fishing town of Kioni. Here, around a little bay, original-style houses that were not disturbed by the 1953 earthquake still stand. It proves to be a great place to stop for lunch.

We drive to the north of Ithaca to the all but deserted fishing town of Kioni

The plate of grilled vegetables and cheese balls is more than enough for two. The chef says that his special herb on the vegetables is black salt, but I’m sure there’s thyme or similar added to the sesame seeds that make it taste so good.  The arrival of my local goat cooked three hours in the outdoors oven was too much. I hope the local animals enjoyed their special treat.

 
 

Corinth Canal, Greece

Everybody is jockeying for positions at the bow of the ship to see us enter the Corinth Canal. Juanita von Stieglitz and Shenagh amble along in sun hats looking like they’re off to a bush picnic. But they well and truly hold their own. And reserve a prime position for me.

The tug guides the ship through the narrow 'cut' in the land of the Corinth Canal

A 'tight fit' in the Corinth Canal

O me with all the faith, am proven wrong. While the teeth-chattering band of fearful sailors (the ‘ye of little faith’ crowd) seem to relish their fears of being stuck somehow in the transit being realised. They now have a real-life drama of being ‘stuck in the mud’ to relate to friends back home.

I continue sitting on the aft deck sipping my Earl Grey and enjoying a hot scone, as I hear the captain announce that the ship is stuck from a combination of mud under the keel and a strong current against us. The water is so shallow that they cannot use any propulsion.

Another pot of tea is called for while waiting for the Pilot and Canal authorities to get us moving again. And of course, we do.
Returning to my cabin is like moving from day into night. I find myself ‘entombed’ in the dark between stone-walls. I can pick the weeds growing in the crevices and see the rocks all but scraping the keel of the ship below.

Now to prepare for guests this evening.

POST-CORINTH CANAL CAVIAR AND CANAPÉS

Pam and Ken arrive for the in suite party - and a glass of 'Dom'

It’s less than a week to go till we disembark in Piraeus, so today’s easy day ‘at sea’ and the excitement while transiting the Corinth Canal is a good excuse for our little group to get together for a few quiet drinks.

Annie waits to open the Russian ‘Royal Ossetra Caviar’ with the pleasing pop and distinctive nutty taste to go with the bubbles of ‘Dom’ (from American Express).

Smiles all round on this cruise

Also a chance to discuss the upcoming visits to Santorini, Rhodes, Ephesus and Mykonos. If that sounds exhausting, you might be ‘on the money’.

 
 

Santorini, Greece

“Clouds come down over Santorini each evening kissing the volcanic soil with their moisture.” Fairytale? No!

Nick the Greek, our affable taxi driver says so. In this otherwise dry island where people have to ship in their drinking water, the grape vines and vegetable plantings are watered naturally, as if from the Gods.

And to add a note of veracity to this claim, the Baroness Juanita advises us that she’s recently invested in an Israeli firm that specialises in microclimates, and is building the capacity to do exactly this, to water, green and make productive, dry areas of the earth.

Nick the Greek came into our orbit when we had to find a way to get from the top of Santorini down to Ammoudi Bay, below the scenic village of Oia, at the other end of the island, for lunch. And how great that is.

The picture postcard view from Oia in Santorini

Those blue domes of Santorini in Oia

After stopping at Oia village for the regulation photo-stop to capture us in front of the blue domes and white houses, Nick continues on to a shelf of land right on the sea, where sit four taverna.

The Ammoudi Bay Fish Tavern, open to the breezes with tables right next to the clearest waters of the caldera, is one of the island’s gems. Of greater memory is the sun-dried squid, char-grilled and delivered with just a squeeze of lemon. Lip-smacking good, as is the calamari. Shall I go on?

Groaning, sated, and delighted with the local Santorini white wine (kissed by the clouds), we leave the table, (having avoided the fish and lobster in the display cabinets at €70 a kilo).

Squid or octopus dripping in the sun - whatever it was, it was delicious char-grilled

 
 

Rhodes, Greece

Rhodes is the largest medieval city in Europe, from 4BC to the present day, and six times larger than the Vatican. The Knights of St John ruled here for two centuries before the land was occupied by the Ottomans. The Italians came in 1918 until ousted by the Germans during the War.

The Colossus of Rhodes stood astride the harbor here in Rhodes, for but seventy years, in 2 BC, before an earthquake felled it, and it sunk to the bottom of the sea.  Arabs retrieved it centuries later and sold the metal to Jewish merchants for re-sale into munitions and other scrap metal.

We manage to reach the walls of Rhodes’ Old City and begin a walking tour from the Gate D’Amboise. We enter through these massive gates and marvel at the imposing Palace of the Grand Masters from the outside

Maria, the local guide kept us all focussed on the fascinating history of the Knights

Floor Mosaics well preserved for generations to admire

Looking beyond the Palace of the Knights

Mercifully we are already inside this UNESCO protected Palace, seated in a sheltered colonnade listening intently to Maria’s fascinating story of the Colossus of Rhodes, as torrents of water start to bucket-down in the courtyard. Then up an impressive stone staircase (with no rails) to explore the rooms with imported floors of original Pagan, Greek and Roman mosaics, and view other rooms preserved as they once were during the times of the Knights.

I was unaware that it was only after the Second World War that this island was annexed to Greece.

 
 

Ephesus, Turkey

A delicate balance today between fellow travellers with interests primarily in visiting Ephesus Ancient City, and the more devout with interests also in what a little house up in the mountains above the ancient city represents to Christians. Thanks to our friendly local guide Hakan, we do it well – finishing up in a small family establishment near the port in Kuşadasi, OzUrfa Restaurant, with excellent kebabs washed down with refreshing local wines and beers.

It is thought that Mary and the beloved disciple John came to this part of the world from Jerusalem across the sea. Imagination and some quiet contemplation helps to truly appreciate this place. I wouldn’t mind settling in this peaceful with little birds singing as they flit from branch to branch. Perhaps, I wouldn’t like to walk to a well somewhere to get the water to bathe, as Mary did. I wonder if she cooked kebabs as delicious as we enjoyed?

At Mary's House in Ephesus

Visits of three popes to this House of Mary in recent times is an indication of the significance of the site. Silently inside, we can see the lamp that was gifted by Paul VI, a chalice from St John Paul II, and a gold rosary from Benedict XVI. My sister Anne and I take the opportunity to light candles, and say a prayer for elder brother Tony, and also remember other friends and family.

Ephesus Ancient City is so much more than I expected. It has been excavated from under tons of silt built-up over the years by flooding from a river than brings floods down from the mountains. So much silt that the once seaside City is now some miles inland with fertile lands of peaches and olives all the way to the now distant sea.

Our happy group of nine with Hakan the local tour guide - at the Library in Ephesus Ancient City

Famous in antiquity for its Temple of Artemus during the years of the Roman Empire, the Greek port of Ephesus became the greatest city in Asia Minor. We start at the upper Magnesia Gate of Ephesus Ancient City and walk through history along marble streets lined with extensive ruins from state buildings to public buildings, the Roman Library, Theatre, ending near the ancient Harbour.

Along the way we stop at the Odeon, the Fountain of Trajan, the steam baths of Scholastika, the temple of Hadrian and the impressive Library of Celsius. The Library is adorned with columns and statues. We pass the Grand Theatre where St. Paul once preached. With 24,000 seats, it is the largest theatre in antiquity. We walk back to our private vehicle through the Arcadian Way, where Mark Anthony and Cleopatra once rode in procession.

The evangelist St. John spent his last years in the region around Ephesus, and we next visit the Basilica named in his honour. This monumental basilica, built during the region of Emperor Justinian (527-565 A.D.), was in the shape of a cross and covered with six domes. Raised on two steps and covered with marble, the tomb of St. John is located under the central dome.

The once huge Basilica of St John in Ephesus

This whole area takes on much greater importance to Christians of Faith. This part of Turkey was the cradle of Christianity for four centuries after Christ. John, one of the greatest evangelists lived here, and Mary the mother of Jesus spent her final years here.

The First Council of Nicaea, (325), the first ecumenical council of the Christian church, was held here. It was called by the emperor Constantine I, an unbaptized catechumen, who presided over the opening session and took part in the discussions.

The main accomplishment of this Council was the settlement of the Christological issue of the divine nature of God the Son and his relationship to God the Father, and the construction of the first part of the Nicene Creed.

Afterwards we drive back to Kuşadasi for a lunch of the best kebabs at OzUrfa Restaurant.

Frank and Michael - enjoying the kebabs in Kuşadasi

 
 

Mykonos, Greece

After coming ashore in the tender, we all go strolling to discover our own Mykonos

The iconic windmills of Mykonos are in a state of disrepair. Scandal. Fortunately, friend from Frankfurt days in the early 90’s, David Wright who’s been resident in Mykonos for nearly seven years, is at the dock to meet us when we alight from the tender.

After trying to approach the windmills, we lose the battle against the tide of tourists from six cruise ships and satisfy our sightseeing urge with a quick walk through the colourful back streets.

Frank, Edmundo and David strolling through the colourful back streets of Mykonos

We then head out of town to a rustic little place, Kiki’s, overlooking a quiet beach for a Greek char-grilled lunch. Just twenty tables under a vine shelter with sea breezes to cool us.

Out of Mykonos for a rustic lunch at Kiki's

Frank is intrigued with the T-shirt with 'heaven and hell' sub texts

 
 

Silver Wind Mediterranean Moments

Silver Wind

Juanita with the Mary Astor brooch (and very proud to be with Michael receiving his Silversea 100-day Award, and Fr Frank in his German clerical collar

A Junior Officer arrives to check the set-up for our In-Suite Party

 
 

Rome

A weekend in Rome with Michael and Frank up the mountain and Juanita and Edmundo in the centre of things makes for a challenging two days in the Eternal City. And Edmundo’s confinement to bed with a cold left the Baroness Juanita alone to covort with Michael and Frank.

Vatican Gardens in the heat

Not only the heat, but the ongoing monotonous moaning voice of the tour guide through my ear piece with the most uninteresting drivel about Pope this and Pope that, with hardly a botanical mention. One of our party ‘felt the heat’ so much that I asked for a gendarme to escort us out of Vatican State, back to sanity and the outside world in Italy.

Villa Fontelunga, Tuscany

Edmundo waits patiently with our driver Marco at Fiumicino Airport for Juanita and me after our twenty-three hours flying from Sydney.

After another three hours driving north, we finally arrive at Villa Fontelunga, abloom with spring flowers. We are welcomed with the first of what is to be many glasses of Prosecco, and we pause to take in the beautiful views out over the manicured lawns and olive groves to the Val Di Chiana.

We are so far from reality, but already ensconced with that heightened anticipation of the friendly staff treating us royally for a few days.

Cold cuts and salads are set out for our lunch as none of us has any intention to leave the villa. We do go ‘to town’ in the evening to try the local Chianina beef (used for Fiorentina T-bone steaks).

In the morning, I’m up early enough to see Paolo turning out a freshly baked cake for the breakfast buffet. A cappuccino and cake out in the morning sunshine is a great way to start the day (and the holiday).

Pienza

Our first excursion is into Pienza, a town that is a UNESCO declared World Heritage Site. More recently, the entire valley, the Val d’Orcia, was included on the list of UNESCO’s World Cultural Landscapes.

In the 'tourist' mood in Pienza with the Val d'Orcia in the background

Thanks to Paolo at the Villa, we have a wonderful local lady drive us there and instructions for where to enjoy a simple lunch outdoors. The rest of the time we wander.

Pienza is the home of pecorino cheese. The cheese aroma wafts from so many of the shops as we walk down the main street. According to some farmers, the secret to their product is the unique combination of Sardinian sheep and Tuscan grass.

Arezzo

Arezzo is a rural centre of Etruscan origin, just half an hour’s drive from our Villa, (or an hour south east of Florence).

Michael and Juanita in Arezzo's main square Piazza Grande with the elegant loggia designed by Vasari

Arezzo is a little gem, thanks mainly to the legacy left by its two most gifted sons: the stunning frescos by Piero della Francesca in the Church of San Francesco, and the main square Piazza Grande with the elegant loggia designed by Vasari (the same Vasari who planned the Uffizi in Florence.)

Unfortunately we arrive in the heat of the mid-day sun just as everything is closing. We are doubly disappointed to learn that the next available time for viewing of Piero della Francesca’s fresco cycle ‘Legends of the True Cross’ in the Basilica of San Francesco is not until 6pm.

We did visit the Church of Santa Maria della Pieve, very impressive from the outside, but with an interior so dark, before traipsing up the hill to visit the Cathedral. Back to the Piazza of San Francesco for yet another Campari, and lunch out under a large umbrella.

Siena

Driving along regional roads on our way from Arezzo to Siena, wildflowers line the verges. Don’t you love the Spring season?

Rolling green hills sweep away on all sides.

Expanses of rich earth of ‘terra di Siena bruciata’ colour await the planting of sunflowers to turn heads (theirs and ours) later in the summer.

Hilltop towns with towers standing for centuries seemingly never tire of looking out and across to the surrounding mountains watching for any interlopers like us entering their verdant domain.

Cypress randomly dot the expanses of green, waiting for sunrise and sunset to make perfect picture postcard views of what we lovingly recognise as the typical Tuscan countryside. (In between, successive days of blue skies add to our enjoyment.)

Edmundo, Juanita and Agostino - Siena

Again, crowds have arrive in Siena before us, and after ‘doing battle’, we agree to find the restaurant Osteria di Logge, recommended by Paolo back at Villa Fontelunga, and rest the weary bones. And eat some rabbit!