stroll into new areas of the Old City late on a Saturday afternoon rewards me; the smell of incense and spices wafts up from the skylight grates in the roof of the covered maze of Markets below. I take in ‘suburban’ backstreet activity in this 2,000 year-old setting; and somehow I end up by stumbling …
n enticing smell of wild thyme assaults my nostrils as I walk down the new Mamilla Mall towards Jaffa Gate and approach the old walls of the Holy City. I wonder what the Crusaders would have smelled, over and above themselves, as they approached the Holy City hundreds of years ago? A more important quandry …